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A gourmet road trip around Kerikeri
By Claire Trevett NZ Herald 29th Dec. '03 |
Tell Bob Rosevear you do not like the cheese with holes in it and he gets a determined look in his eye. The farmer-turned-cheesemaker carefully unwraps a thick wedge and presents a slice. "You don't have to eat the holes. Just eat around them." In Oromahoe, about 2km south along State Highway 10 from the Puketona turnoff to Paihia, Mahoe Cheese sells from a tiny room at the back of its cheese factory. Set in farmland, the factory is down a driveway past fields of the cows that make the milk that makes the cheese, and tucked behind a kauri timber mill. Mahoe sprang to notoriety four years ago when its Very Old Edam won the Supreme Award at the New Zealand Cheese Awards. While its flagship cheeses are the edam and gouda, the locals seem especially fond of the various herbed cheeses. Mahoe is one of several niche food producers along the roads that surround Kerikeri. Traditionally the home of citrus fruit and kiwifruit, the region has turned into a delicatessen over the last decade, albeit with well-spread-out shelves. Macadamia nuts, cheeses and wines can all be found at factory prices. At Ludbrook House, on SH1 in Ohaeawai, Chris Ludbrook makes conserves, panforte, jellies and preserved lemons and limes in a commercial kitchen at the back of the family's old farmhouse. Despairing at watching fruit rot on the ground, Chris Ludbrook set to turn quinces, figs and lemons into goodies that are now served to Air New Zealand's first-class passengers and at the exclusive Kauri Cliffs lodge at Matauri Bay. Her quince paste or capsicum and chilli pepper jelly make a perfect accompaniment to Mahoe's cheeses. Some products can be found on Mahoe's shelves, next to other regional delicacies, including organic coffee roasted in Kaeo, chilli sauces from Kawakawa and Kaitaia, honey from Hokianga and olive oil from Kerikeri. Back past Mahoe on State Highway 10, just before the turnoff to Kerikeri, two wineries offer lunches and tastings. Cottle Hill offers ploughman's lunches, salads and antipasto platters to go with their wines - largely reds and chardonnay. Owners Mike and Barbara Webb started the winery in 1996, four years after they sailed to New Zealand from San Diego and never left. Opposite the Kerikeri Rd turnoff, Wiroa Rd leads to the airport and also Marsden Estate, where they offer brunch, lunch and dinner either indoors or on the patio, kept cool by grapevines overhead and looking out over the lake and vineyards. For those who want something a little stronger, Bishops Wood Estate on SH10 makes its own spirits and liqueurs. The chilli schnapps will make a head-high tackle on your gullet, but the Macadamia Cream Liqueur will cool it down. The estate also has a new Italian chef, from San Francisco, for its revamped restaurant. Roadside stalls and signs pointing to orchards are speckled along SH10 and Waipapa Rd, with fresh fruit, macadamia nuts and vegetables on offer. The Redwoods centre, on SH10 just south of Waipapa Rd, is a good one-stop shop. Redwoods also makes pickles, preserves, jams and jellies. About 2km past Waipapa, the avocado oil that snared Jamie Oliver's tastebuds is made and sold at the Olivado factory, down Sandys Rd off SH10. If you have a yearning for fish'n'chips, Waipapa's Highway 10 Seafood Takeaways has won awards five times for Northland's best. For those who would rather catch their own fish, former chef Peter Chaney will smoke it for you at his PC Meats butchery on Waipapa Rd. He also sells everything from homemade brawn to quail.
In Kerikeri itself, is Churchill's butchery, where Rhys Taylor set up shop three years ago after moving from Auckland, where he owned The Meat Keeper in Remuera. Mr Taylor makes his own salami, sausages, black puddings, bacon and ham. His mother, Shirley, supplies handmade plum sauce and Shirl the Pearl's World Famous Meatballs. Those too lazy to turn their ingredients into a meal can visit Cafe Blue, up Kerikeri Rd. Finally, for the cherry on the top of the day, Kerikeri Rd will also take you to boutique chocolate factory Makana Confections. where they have turned some of the region's fruit and nuts into sneaky treats, carefully handmade by staff who can be seen, behind windows, rolling truffles and pouring macadamia butter toffee crunch. Tastings are offered so go before the New Year's resolutions kick in.
More information
* Bay of Islands Information centre at The Wharf, Marsden Rd, Paihia. Phone (09) 402-7345 or 0800 363-463.
* Kerikeri Business Association's website at www.kerikeri.co.nz
* Tourism site Northland Naturally at www.northland.org.nz
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"a superb shopping experience and an absolute taste sensation". |
Quality kitchen and Dining Ware Fairway Drive |

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E-mail: john@trixies.co.nz Phone: +64-9-407 9437 Fax: +64-9-407 9436 Tollfree (in Northland) 0800-10-80-01 P.O BOX 176 KERIKERI |
KERIKERI. RETAIL THERAPY IN THE FAR NORTH
Kerikeri, not just the Stone Store, or the top small town, as voted in last December North South magazine, it is also a wonderful place for a short break (or a long one!)
If you have heard the moans about nothing to do, check it out for yourself. You will find there is enough to keep you busy with just the shopping.
In Kerikeri main street you will find interesting little shops such as Country Living, a delightful place, with an equally delightful owner. Situated right in the centre of the main shopping area, it is filled to overflowing with wonderful gifts and goodies. Delphine Edwards shifted to Kerikeri from Auckland over five years ago to be close to family, and loves the new lifestyle. So much so, that her life has become full to the brim with no time for pleasure, and she has reluctantly decided to sell her little mecca. So those with a yearning to purchase more than just goodies, should take a good look.
If you pop into Enz of the Earth, you had better have a large car, unless you arrange to ship your purchases home. The furniture in this shop is out of this world, full of character, and perfect if you are embarking on a redecorating project. Even if you are not, it will be difficult to come away without something from here, especially as the prices are very reasonable. Khan Zamam is another outlet where goods from exotic regions can be purchased. Set up by Julia Reinhold, who has recently returned to live in Kerikeri after many years in the Middle East, this shop has many items you would not see in more regular shops.
For a slightly different experience in shopping you must try the art galleries. Nestled under the trees is russellart gallery, where resident artist Cecilia Russell shows a range of her quality art and prints. She specialises in portraying the nude in a variety of media, which she sells through this gallery and other galleries in NZ and overseas. You may be familiar with her famous word pictures which she sells as prints. The gallery is open for exhibitions and holidays - otherwise by arrangement when visitors are very welcome to phone 09 4077 655 to arrange to visit.
For a bit of a taste sensation you can make your way to the Chocolate Factory, to the liquor place across the road, or to the new Avocado oil factory. Or you can visit one of the many great cafés in the area. Many of them are award winners for one thing or another, but my favourite has to be the Fishbone, where a wonderful lunch can be eaten at a very reasonable price. And wine lovers need not be disappointed. The Cottle Hill Winery , with only six vintages under their belt, has won numerous medals including a gold for their 2000 Reserve Chardonnay and a silver for their 1998 Reserve Merlot. This small family owned winery is the fulfilment of a life long dream for Mike and Barbara Webb. They sailed away from a busy Southern Californian lifestyle, arriving in the Bay of Islands in 1992. After a few more years of sailing the South Pacific, they finally settled in Kerikeri and established their new winery, where their philosophy is that wine is for everyday and for everyone.
After you have done your shopping, and purchased all you need to eat and drink, you can take a trip to one of the many beaches nearby, spread out your blanket and rest your weary feet. For the more energetic with enough steam left, check out the large Kauris in the Puketi State Forest, or take a short drive down to Paihia, Waitangi and across the water to Russell.
You can even have a night out at the movies. Kerikeri does have it’s own picture theatre. A quaint old building, opposite what used to be the Post Office (now Books and More) it has been showing movies for many, many years.
If you are tempted to visit, there are many accommodation providers in the area, from Bed and Breakfasts to Motels like the Central Motel (it really is central - right in town) and is set in a secluded tropical garden, where you can breakfast on your patio to the song of the tuis in the flax. After wandering around town for the day, or exploring the surrounding areas, you can cool off in their large swimming pool, sizzle your steak on their poolside barbeque, and end your day with a soak in their hot spa under the moon and stars.
Or if a Tourist Park is more your style, try Gibbys Place, which has been recently purchased by John and Rosemary Herrington, newcomers to the town from Greece. Having lived, worked and travelled in many parts of the world, they are now settled and looking forward to experiencing the friendliness of Kiwis. Cabins and powered lawn sites are set in a beautiful spacious garden amidst established shade trees, and there is ample room for children to play, or make use of their fenced swimming pool.
So, next time you hear someone say "There’s nothing to do up north!" you can quietly smile and think to yourself, "they don’t know what they are talking about."
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